TERRACYCLE NEWS

ELIMINATING THE IDEA OF WASTE®

Posts with term Meow Meow Tweet X

2021’s Best New Sustainable Beauty Products Have Circularity in Mind

With language like “circular” and “climate-positive” swirling around the best sustainable beauty brands of 2021, this is the year to consider your relationship with “wish-cycling.” If you haven’t heard the term, you might already be doing it. “Tossing stuff in the curbside bin and hoping for the best” is how Mia Davis, Credo’s VP of impact and sustainability, defines it. That said, the problem starts long before your wish-cycling. “Brands and municipal recycling facilities don't usually offer guidance, and a lot of plastic beauty packaging doesn't even have resin identification code on it,” says Davis, pointing out that in 2018, an estimated 120 billion units of cosmetics packaging were produced globally. “Most beauty products are packaged in plastic—think of all of the plastic compacts, lipsticks, squeezable tubes, jars, caps and pumps...but only about nine percent of plastic is recycled.” When the rest is incinerated, landfilled, or dumped, and consumers are scream-requesting that Big Beauty recognizes and reforms its role in this wasteful cycle, industry experts are addressing the issue in a number of ways. Credo's Sustainable Packaging Guidelines require brands to share accurate disposal instructions with customers, plus eliminate single-use packaging by the first of June. That means no more sheet masks, makeup wipes, treatment pads, or tiny sample packets (an industry first, according to Davis). Plus, a new Pact Collective recycling program launches today, bringing beauty stakeholders together “to take responsibility for the impacts of our packaging.” Pact Bins will be available inside Credo (US) and Hudson's Bay (Canada) stores so that specialty recyclers can handle and reuse materials from products dropped inside. For the Loop by Ulta Beauty project via Terracycle (the company making it easier than ever to do the right thing for “hard-to-recycle” pieces), Heather Crawford, Loop’s VP of marketing and platform, explains that the goal is to move beyond recycling and into reusing. “It’s actually about reducing the amount of raw materials that need to be constantly extracted, processed, produced, and transported time and time again to create a new unit of disposable packaging,” she says. Crawford works directly with brands to figure out ways to hygienically clean existing packaging to refill and redistribute it, or to design new models (like Dermalogica’s minimalist stainless steel bottles or Burt’s Bees’ counter-worthy cleanser vessels) that can meet extended lifecycle requirements. “Our minimum threshold for using a package on the platform is 10 cycles, and often in a really durable material like glass, it can go around up to hundreds of times,” Crawford says. They’ve also revolutionized the delivery method, with orders arriving in a durable, padded tote that customers can store until they reload it with empties and have it picked up directly from home. No more bubble wrap, paper sleeves, and throwaway fluff. Of course, packaging isn’t the only thing that makes a product circular or conscious. Factors like production methods, clean energy, harvesting techniques, and ingredient sourcing all play into a mission to improve wasteful or unethical practices. Below, an assortment of products that are stepping (with large and small strides) into the sustainable future:

Izzy Zero Waste Mascara

Image may contain: Cosmetics, and Mascara

Izzy Zero Waste Mascara

$39 IZZY SHOP NOW Touting itself as “the world’s first zero waste mascara,” Izzy’s just-launched mascara is reusable, recyclable, and CarbonNeutral®. Thanks to a medical-grade stainless steel tube designed to be refilled again and again, once the formula runs out, it can be dropped in a multi-use mailer (where even the shipping process is zero-waste).

Circumference Daily Regenerative Gel Cleanser

Image may contain: Bottle, and Shaker

Circumference Daily Regenerative Gel Cleanser

$48 CIRCUMFERENCE SHOP NOW The main bioactive ingredient in this cleanser, olive leaf extract, is a byproduct (meaning otherwise unusable) from a family-run California farm’s olive harvest. Circumference utilizes the olive leaves that would have otherwise been biowaste to carefully (and with a chemical-free method) extract potent actives, then returns the mulch to the farm to be used as compost for a circular production system.

Rose Hermes Silky Blush Powder Refill

Image may contain: Cosmetics, Text, Business Card, Paper, and Face Makeup

Rose Hermès Silky Blush Powder Refill

$48 HERMES PARIS SHOP NOW A marriage of high fashion and forward-looking logic, Hermes’s blush refill comes with a tiny key that can be inserted to pop out the powder pan and replace it with a new one. Perfect for the consumer who isn’t ready to forgo design for a category as aesthetically focused as beauty.

MOB Cake Liner

Image may contain: Cushion

MOB Cake Liner

$18 MOB BEAUTY SHOP NOW “Check out MOB Beauty, a new DTC brand founded by my Pact Collective co-founder (and part of the original MAC team), Victor Casale,” Davis suggests. “Their packaging is simple and beautiful, sustainable and refillable—and made by our other founding member of Pact, Element Packaging.” The compacts are reusable and created with post consumer recycled PET, which the brand notes is the most easily recyclable resin.

Meow Meow Tweet Baking Soda Free Grapefruit Deodorant Cream

product image

Meow Meow Tweet Deodorant Cream

$14 MEOW MEOW TWEET SHOP NOW “If a brand was already packaging a product in a glass jar, something which can actually be reused, in some cases we’re taking this packaging type and reusing it instead of recycling them,” says Crawford. “Meow Meow Tweet, for example, has some of their deodorant creams in little glass jars that are professionally cleaned and then ready for reuse rather than being sent to recycling when you buy them through the LOOP by Ulta platform.”

Mab & Stoke Daily Defense Face Oil

Image may contain: Bottle, and Shaker

Mab & Stoke Daily Defense Face Oil

$72 MAB & STOKE SHOP NOW Made with wild harvested ingredients, Mab & Stoke’s team works alongside United Plant Savers on their mission to conserve and restore medicinal plants and habitats. All packaging is compostable, reusable or recyclable, and a tree is planted with every order in partnership with American Forests.

The Handmade Soap Company ANAM Refill

Image may contain: Clothing, and Apparel

The Handmade Soap Company Anam Wash Refill

$18 THE HANDMADE SOAP COMPANY SHOP NOW While the full version features a luxury glass, zero-plastic, refillable bottle, this refill wash comes in what the brand describes as “the world’s first compostable refill” designed to biodegrade in six weeks with industrial composting.

Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum

product image

Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum

$34 MAD HIPPIE SHOP NOW “We were very excited to have Mad Hippie,” says Crawford of partnering with the beauty brand to better utilize their glass packaging. While vitamin C has become an industry-favorite ingredient across the board, their indie formula is a best-seller (and award-winner).

Saalt Cup

Image may contain: Cosmetics, and Bottle

Saalt Menstrual Cup

$29 SAALT SHOP NOW Saalt shares that the average person using disposable products uses approximately 16,900 tampons in their lifetime, when a single menstrual cup can last up to ten years. Since launching in February 2018, the brand has diverted almost three million period waste products from landfills, plus contributed funds for over 11,000 pounds of cleanup. Now teaming up with rePurpose Global, they’re slated to be the first period care brand to certify as Plastic Negative (a step beyond neutral) by pledging to remove twice as much waste from the environment as is generated in their supply chain by funding the cleanup of low-value plastic waste. Plus, those funds support recycling programs for impoverished communities affected by plastic waste and provide higher-paying jobs for waste workers.

Salwa Petersen Chébé du Tchad Hair Cream

Image may contain: Bottle, and Plant

Salwa Peterson Chébé Du Tchad Hair Cream

$66 SALWA SHOP NOW Salwa Peterson shares that 100% of electricity used to produce her products is green, 100% of the water is “cleaned and returned to nature,” 100% of vegetable trash is composted, 100% of packaging is recyclable, and 100% of paper is FSC certified. The women who respectfully harvest the organic Chébé seeds in the line’s hair cream are paid three times the local salary, and 2% of proceeds go to African Parks Network, which manages 20 National Parks across the continent for a partnership that’s helped them, technically, reach carbon-negative status.

Susteau Moondust Duo

product image

Susteau Moondust Duo

$55 SUSTEAU SHOP NOW Thanks to super concentrated formulas, one bottle of powdered hair wash is the equivalent of four liquid-based formulas. The brand notes that removing the emulsification process during manufacturing alone eliminates over 90% of the energy in the product life cycle of traditional liquid shampoo and conditioner. Formulations are biodegradable, and bottles are made with over 95% ocean-bound, recycled plastic, and can be recycled curbside.

Susanne Kaufmann Cleansing Gel Refill Pouch

Image may contain: Bottle, Shaker, Shampoo, and Lotion

Susanne Kaufmann Cleansing Gel Refill

$82 SUSANNE KAUFMANN SHOP NOW While Susanne Kaufmann’s glass bottles fall into the industry’s aforementioned “counter-worthy” category, the refill system cuts carbon emissions by 69%. Designed with 75% post-consumer material, refill bags can be recycled after use.

AYOND Metamorph Cleansing Balm

product image

Ayond Metamorph Cleansing Balm

$80 AYOND SHOP NOW With a 100% post-consumer paper-wrapped box and compostable cellophane, Ayond’s dreamy natural formulas are delivered consciously, though the brand takes it a step further with a recycling program. Save the original box, then gather caps, pumps and droppers, request a shipping label, and they’ll take it from there.

AmaSea SeaTea Bath Bags

Image may contain: Text, and Label

Ama SeaTea Bath Bags

$45 AMA SEA BEAUTY SHOP NOW AmaSea Beauty’s line depends on the ocean, and supports restorative ocean farming and coastal conservation. Founder Antoinette Marquez is an ocean conservationist working to protect a kelp forest off the coast of Santa Barbara, and practices ocean stewardship with PharmaSea to maintain and restore coastal marine habitats.

Dieux Forever Eye Mask

Image may contain: Rubber Eraser

Dieux Forever Eye Mask

$25 DIEUX SHOP NOW Disposable masks are no longer an acceptable form of self-care to many in the industry (including Credo, who will ban them as of this June). Dieux, instead, offers a 100% medical-grade silicone alternative that can be used daily without adding to the waste cycle.

Youthforia BYO Blush

product image

Youthforia Byo Blush

$36 YOUTHFORIA SHOP NOW A plant-based, color-changing blush oil that reacts to your skin’s natural pH, Youthforia’s formulas are USDA BioPreferred (meaning they’re made with fewer fossil fuels than traditional formulas for a smaller carbon footprint) and recyclable through Terracycle.

Superzero Men’s Allover Shampoo & Body Bar

product image

Superzero Men's Allover Shampoo and Body Bar

$18 SUPERZERO SHOP NOW Certified free of all microplastics and technically zero-waste, Superzero’s waterless formulas also use compostable bio-wrappers made from beer industry leftovers and make an effort to upcycle food waste like blueberry seed oil (from the juicing industry) in their hand balm bars.

Thrive Natural Care BodyShield Mineral SPF 50

Image may contain: Bottle, Cosmetics, and Aftershave

Thrive Natural Care BodyShield Mineral SPF 50

$19 THRIVE NATURAL CARE SHOP NOW Using proprietary native plants to support biodiversity and improve soil on their regenerative farms in Costa Rica is step one for Thrive Natural Care, which also packages its products in plants like this tube, made from sustainably sourced sugarcane from Brazil. BodyShield 50 features medicinal plant oil with anti-inflammatory skin benefits, and the brand was awarded an Amazon Launchpad Innovation Grant for its mineral SPF formula and their regenerative business model.

Elate Beauty Unify Loose Powder

product image

Elate Beauty Unify Glow Powder

$36 ELATE BEAUTY SHOP NOW Housed in a refillable, compostable bamboo jar, Elate Beauty’s sheer illuminating powder is made with ethically-sourced mica, argan microzest and kaolin clay.

Hey Humans Body Wash Rosewater Ginger

Image may contain: Bottle, and Shaker

Hey Humans Body Wash Rosewater Ginger

$6 HEY HUMANS SHOP NOW A project of Jada Pinkett Smith (who acts as the face of the brand, its creative director, and its co-founder), Hey Humans products are packaged in “infinitely recyclable” aluminum and paper. The clean formulas are also naturally-derived and designed to be gender-neutral.

Hello Products Antiplaque + Whitening Toothpaste Tablets

product image

Hello Antiplaque + Whitening Toothpaste Tablets

$9 HELLO SHOP NOW With free-range mint sourced sustainably from 4th-generation farmers in Oregon, Hello offers another addition to the waterless category of the future. Their toothpaste tablets shake around in a recyclable, reusable tin jar that requires less energy and carbon emissions for shipping and storage.

Vapour Beauty Lip Nectar

Image may contain: Cosmetics, and Lipstick

Vapour Beauty Lip Nectar

$28 VAPOUR BEAUTY SHOP NOW The Taos-based brand runs on 100% renewable solar energy, and recognizes water as a precious resource, making 97% of their clean line waterless, or “anhydrous” as they say. Products are housed in FSC Certified paper and recyclable through Terracycle.

Noice Dental Gel Refill

product image

NOICE Dental Gel Refill

$9 NOICE SHOP NOW “We are working with a brand called Noice Care for oral care, which historically has been a very very challenging product to recycle,” says Crawford. “We’re also really excited to see some category disruption with them.” The fluoride-free formula is officially listed as “the world’s first refillable toothpaste gel.”

Everist Waterless Haircare Concentrates Kit

Image may contain: Bottle

Everist Waterless Haircare Concentrates Starter Kit

$46 EVERIST SHOP NOW Made out of 99.7% pure aluminum, the tubes used for Everist products are single-use plastic free and recyclable. The super-concentrated formulas rely on biodegradable ingredients, and the line’s small carbon footprint is offset to be neutral.

Cleo + Coco Zero-Waste Deodorant Bar in Brave Heart (Basil Mint)

Image may contain: Diaper, and Paper

Cleo + Coco Zero-Waste Deodorant Bar in Brave Heart

$14 CLEO + COCO SHOP NOW Cleo + Coco’s zero-waste deodorant bar (which includes charcoal without triggering a detox process) arrives in biodegradable FSC certified packaging, wrapped in compostable paper. It comes with a reusable storage bag, and the bottom consists of a wax mold (for gripping) that can be recycled, reused, or absorbed safely back into the earth.

Pacifica Vegan Collagen Recovery Eye Cream

Image may contain: Cosmetics, Face Makeup, and Tape

Pacifica Vegan Collagen Recovery Eye Cream

$16 PACIFICA SHOP NOW Thanks to lab-grown, plant-sourced collagen, no animal byproducts are included in Pacifica's Vegan Collagen Recovery Eye Cream. The brand notes that lab-grown ingredients use less water, less land, and fewer resources to create, and the glass packaging can be recycled curbside.

EcoTools BioBlender

Image may contain: Sponge

EcoTools Bioblender

$6 ECO TOOLS SHOP NOW EcoTools makes their blender with biodegradable foam, and uses packaging that achieves an 88% plastic reduction (the equivalent of nearly 14 million plastic bags, or close to 6 million plastic water bottles). Any paper is FSC Certified and printed with soy ink.

Ace of Air Halo Moisturizer

How can beauty fix its giant waste problem?

image.png
When you look into how recycling management works, it’s a little like finding out Santa Claus doesn’t exist. The illusion shatters and along with it your belief in everything you once thought good and pure in the world. In a way, the road to landfills is paved with good intentions. We Canadians, for example, are notorious for “wish-cycling,” throwing items in the blue bin in the hopes that someone, somewhere will be inspired to recycle them. It doesn’t work like that. Instead, the non-accepted items — chip bags, pizza boxes, toothpaste tubes — only increase the likelihood of actual recyclables getting rejected because the lot is deemed contaminated. To be fair, though, nearly everything is recyclable in theory — even cigarette butts and dirty diapers. But in terms of what actually gets recycled, it all comes down to economics.
“Recyclers want things they can recycle at a profit,” says Tom Szaky, founder and CEO of TerraCycle, a company that aims to recycle materials that usually aren’t. The things that generate profit tend to be large objects made from a single material. And if that’s plastic, it’s usually clear PET (polyethylene terephthalate or type 1 plastic) or white HDPE (high-density polyethylene or type 2). In other words, it’s everything most beauty packaging is not. Take a look at your medicine cabinet. Chances are a lot of your personal care products fit in your palm and will thus likely get missed by sorting machines and thrown in the trash (it’s why samples and minis have been called the beauty industry’s dark secret). They’re probably also made of mixed materials (a plastic, rubber and metal razor; a metal spring in a plastic pump) and, if plastic, neither clear nor white. That last part is important as coloured plastic has a smaller chance of being recycled because of its lower resale value. (The same goes for glass. If it’s amber or green, Szaky says it probably won’t get recycled.) That’s because you can’t take colour out, only add to it, which makes it less attractive to companies. “Think of kids mixing paint,” he says. “It always ends up brown and you can’t unbrown the brown.” In 2018, the U.S. alone produced 7.9 billion units of plastic for beauty and personal care products, according to Euromonitor International. If we transpose that to a Canadian scale — considering Canadians have similar purchasing habits — “we can estimate that Canada produces 909 million plastic packaging units in a year,” says Laura Yates, plastic campaigner for Greenpeace. Out of that, about 23 per cent is diverted for recycling by consumers, but then a third of that is lost in the sorting and recycling process. Bottom line: In Canada, roughly 773 million plastic beauty or personal care containers end up in landfills every year.
So does that mean brands are lying when they emboss a three-arrow triangle on the bottom of, say, a dark travel-sized plastic bottle? No, not technically. That bottle really is recyclable. The issue is similar to consumers’ wish-cycling tendencies: We’re betting our salvation on a system that’s out to make money, not fix the world’s waste problem. When Ericka Rodriguez first started her makeup line, Axiology, in Bend, Oregon, she chose to house her lipsticks in aluminum tubes. “We thought, ‘This is great because aluminum can be recycled over and over again,’” she says. But the part of the tube that held the bullet was made of plastic, which meant that in cities that didn’t accept mixed-material items (guidelines vary a lot from place to place), the whole tube was being discarded. “We felt like we were being dishonest because we were like, ‘It’s recyclable,’ and then some people would be like, ‘It’s not, though, because there’s also plastic.’” It’s not that those aluminum tubes can’t be recycled, it’s that separating the components isn’t considered “worth it.” It gets worse. For a while now, biodegradable plastics have been touted as the solution. You’ve probably used compostable cutlery from that place you got a grain bowl from once and thought, “Wow, this is the future” and went on crunching your quinoa with a clear conscience. The problem is: Composters don’t want compostable packaging. A year ago, Tesco, the biggest retailer in the U.K., banned compostable packaging from its shelves. It did that after it learned composters weren’t actually composting these biodegradable plastics, they were burning them. “Everyone was shocked and asked, “Why? Isn’t it really compostable?”’ says Szaky. “They said, “It is, but it costs us more to process it and deal with it so why would we bother doing it? We’re not morally obligated to do it, we’re not legally obligated. We’re a for-profit business.” Before you go chucking your game of Monopoly in the trash (recycling bin? Who the hell knows anymore?), know that capitalism isn’t the only variable at play. Australia, as part of its first-ever National Plastics Plan, announced last month that it would be banning bioplastics as research has shown that, environmentally, it’s not much better than the conventional kind. “Biodegradable plastics promise a plastic that breaks down into natural components when it’s no longer needed for its original purpose,” explains Jackie Gilbert Bauer, head of product development for hair care brand Hairstory. “The idea that plastic literally disappears once in the ocean or littered on land or in landfills is nice, but it’s not actually possible. Nothing disappears completely.” That’s why Greenpeace does not currently recommend switching to other types of disposable packaging like bioplastics, paper or even 100 per cent recyclable packaging. “Although these often feel like an environmentally better choice than plastic, they are false solutions that risk aggravating current environmental crises, don’t question current disposable culture, and divert attention from the real solutions that should favour reuse,” says Yates. Even TerraCycle, a company built on recycling, acknowledges recycling isn’t the solution. “You really can’t recycle your way out of the place we’re in today,” says Annika Greve, director, business development for North America at Loop, a new TerraCycle initiative launched in Ontario earlier this year. Don’t get her wrong, recycling is “necessary and critical,” she says. For example, TerraCycle and Nordstrom just partnered on BeautyCycle, a program aiming to recycle 100 tons of beauty packaging by 2025 (you can bring any beauty empty to a Nordstrom store to have it recycled). But still, she says, recycling is “a Band-Aid on the much larger issue.” That’s where Loop comes in. It sort of works like an old-school milkman, collecting reusable bottles, cleaning them up and then refilling them. Loop assists companies in transitioning to durable, refillable containers and teams up with retailers such as Loblaws in Canada, so that consumers can buy participating products and drop off empties in a convenient location. Examples of beauty partners in Canada include indie brands like Oneka and Meow Meow Tweet, as well as REN, the first premium beauty brand to sign up. Arnaud Meysselle, REN’s CEO, doesn’t sugar-coat it: Eliminating waste is hard. “There are a lot of hurdles to overcome,” he says of the brand’s pledge to become waste-free by end of year. “There’s a financial impact, which we swallowed — additional costs are not added to the end product — because we are the sinner, so why would we ask people to pay for our sins?” Unfortunately, not every brand is in a position to absorb the costs linked to greener packaging. “It’s really hard for indie brands, the smaller brands, because a lot of these things come with a 10 or 50 thousand minimum order,” says Sheri L. Koetting, founder of MSLK, an agency that guides beauty brands at all stages of development. “So, it’s much easier for the big companies to make these moves. They have the volume. They could do whatever they want.” Ericka Rodriguez ran into this exact problem when she was sourcing refillable lip crayon tubes. “The quotes we were getting to make these were astronomical,” she says. “The way it works is there’s only so many beauty manufacturers out there. They’re mostly in China and they all already work for the big beauty brands. Since these big beauty brands haven’t really invested in, for example, a refillable crayon tube, we’re having to do it and it can be out of reach.”
Luckily, the shift is starting. Last year, P&G brands Pantene, Head & Shoulders and Herbal Essences announced they’d be launching refillable shampoos and conditioners. In January, Dove debuted a refillable deodorant. Unfortunately, these products aren’t available in Canada yet. You can, however, shop refills from L’OccitaneTata Harper, Hairstory and Kiehl’s, to name just a few. “By using 1-litre refill pouches, customers use on average 80 per cent less plastic compared to the same amount of formula across four 250-ml bottles,” says Leonardo Chavez, global brand president for Kiehl’s. “Less plastic,” as in most pouches are still made of plastic, which Koetting says can be viewed as “not that eco-friendly.” “But the amount of plastic that goes into that pouch is so much more minimal and doesn’t take a lot of energy to make,” she says. Because it’s lighter and can ship flat, its transport also generates fewer carbon emissions. We have a tendency to vilify materials, says Szaky, which has certainly been the case with plastic in recent years. “Plastics can do amazing things that nothing else can do. Our computers are made from plastic, our eyeglasses are made from plastic. It’s also how the materials are used that determines whether they’re benevolent or not.” Perhaps the most benevolent material is no material at all. British brand Lush has been a leader in that space with its packageless hair care and skin care bars. Rodriguez also decided to take that route with her multi-purpose balms — she did away with the tubes and instead wrapped the bullets in recycled paper — when she couldn’t find a manufacturer that could provide a packaging solution she was comfortable with.   As consumers, supporting brands that offer these kinds of package-free or refill products — or letting the ones that don’t know that we want better options — can make a world of difference. “The number 1 thing that will make industry change is purchasing habits — that speaks volumes,” Greve says. But the most effective purchasing habit of all? Buying way less. “The only answer is lowering consumption,” Szaky says matter of factly. And this is where the illusion shatters even further: “No matter how vegan or fair-trade that thing that you bought is, if you didn’t buy it, that land that had to farm it could have been a forest.” Like Santa, Szaky confirms, “there’s no such thing as good consumption.”

HOW CAN BEAUTY FIX ITS GIANT WASTE PROBLEM?

There’s a lot to unpack

by Katherine Lalancette   When you look into how recycling management works, it’s a little like finding out Santa Claus doesn’t exist. The illusion shatters and along with it your belief in everything you once thought good and pure in the world. In a way, the road to landfills is paved with good intentions. We Canadians, for example, are notorious for “wish-cycling,” throwing items in the blue bin in the hopes that someone, somewhere will be inspired to recycle them. It doesn’t work like that. Instead, the non-accepted items—chip bags, pizza boxes, toothpaste tubes—only increase the likelihood of actual recyclables getting rejected because the lot is deemed contaminated. To be fair, though, nearly everything is recyclable in theory—even cigarette butts and dirty diapers. But in terms of what actually gets recycled, it all comes down to economics. “Recyclers want things they can recycle at a profit,” says Tom Szaky, founder and CEO of Terracycle, a company that aims to recycle materials that usually aren’t. The things that generate profit tend to be large objects made from a single material. And if that’s plastic, it’s usually clear PET (polyethylene terephthalate or type 1 plastic) or white HDPE (high-density polyethylene or type 2). In other words, it’s everything most beauty packaging is not. Chances are a lot of your personal care products fit in your palm and will thus likely get missed by sorting machines and thrown in the trash Take a look at your medicine cabinet. Chances are a lot of your personal care products fit in your palm and will thus likely get missed by sorting machines and thrown in the trash (it’s why samples and minis have been called the beauty industry’s dark secret). They’re probably also made of mixed materials (a plastic, rubber and metal razor; a metal spring in a plastic pump) and, if plastic, neither clear nor white. That last part is important as coloured plastic has a smaller chance of being recycled because of its lower resale value. (The same goes for glass. If it’s amber or green, Szaky says it probably won’t get recycled.) That’s because you can’t take colour out, only add to it, which makes it less attractive to companies. “Think of kids mixing paint,” he says. “It always ends up brown and you can’t unbrown the brown.” In Canada, roughly 773 million plastic beauty or personal care containers end up in landfills every year In 2018, the U.S. alone produced 7.9 billion units of plastic for beauty and personal care products, according to Euromonitor International. If we transpose that to a Canadian scale—considering Canadians have similar purchasing habits—“we can estimate that Canada produces 909 million plastic packaging units in a year,” says Laura Yates, plastic campaigner for Greenpeace. Out of that, about 23 per cent is diverted for recycling by consumers, but then a third of that is lost in the sorting and recycling process. Bottom line: In Canada, roughly 773 million plastic beauty or personal care containers end up in landfills every year. So does that mean brands are lying when they emboss a three-arrow triangle on the bottom of, say, a dark travel-sized plastic bottle? No, not technically. That bottle really is recyclable. The issue is similar to consumers’ wish-cycling tendencies: We’re betting our salvation on a system that’s out to make money, not fix the world’s waste problem. We’re betting our salvation on a system that’s out to make money, not fix the world’s waste problem When Ericka Rodriguez first started her makeup line, Axiology, in Bend, Oregon, she chose to house her lipsticks in aluminium tubes. “We thought, ‘This is great because aluminium can be recycled over and over again,’” she says. But the part of the tube that held the bullet was made of plastic, which meant that in cities that didn’t accept mixed-material items (guidelines vary a lot from place to place), the whole tube was being discarded. “We felt like we were being dishonest because we were like, ‘It’s recyclable,’ and then some people would be like, ‘It’s not, though, because there’s also plastic.’” It’s not that those aluminium tubes can’t be recycled, it’s that separating the components isn’t considered “worth it.” It gets worse. For a while now, biodegradable plastics have been touted as the solution. You’ve probably used compostable cutlery from that place you got a grain bowl from once and thought, “Wow, this is the future” and went on crunching your quinoa with a clear conscience. The problem is: Composters don’t want compostable packaging. The biggest retailer in the U.K. banned compostable packaging from its shelves after it learned composters weren’t actually composting these biodegradable plastics, they were burning them A year ago, Tesco, the biggest retailer in the U.K., banned compostable packaging from its shelves. It did that after it learned composters weren’t actually composting these biodegradable plastics, they were burning them. “Everyone was shocked and asked, “Why? Isn’t it really compostable?”’ says Szaky. “They said, “It is, but it costs us more to process it and deal with it so why would we bother doing it? We’re not morally obligated to do it, we’re not legally obligated. We’re a for-profit business.” Before you go chucking your game of Monopoly in the trash (recycling bin? Who the hell knows anymore?), know that capitalism isn’t the only variable at play. Australia, as part of its first-ever National Plastics Plan, announced last month that it would be banning bioplastics as research has shown that, environmentally, it’s not much better than the conventional kind. “Biodegradable plastics promise a plastic that breaks down into natural components when it’s no longer needed for its original purpose,” explains Jackie Gilbert Bauer, head of product development for hair care brand Hairstory. “The idea that plastic literally disappears once in the ocean or littered on land or in landfills is nice, but it’s not actually possible. Nothing disappears completely.” That’s why Greenpeace does not currently recommend switching to other types of disposable packaging like bioplastics, paper or even 100 per cent recyclable packaging. “Although these often feel like an environmentally better choice than plastic, they are false solutions that risk aggravating current environmental crises, don’t question current disposable culture, and divert attention from the real solutions that should favour reuse,” says Yates. “You really can’t recycle your way out of the place we’re in today” Even Terracyle, a company built on recycling, acknowledges recycling isn’t the solution. “You really can’t recycle your way out of the place we’re in today,” says Annika Greve, director, business development for North America at Loop, a new Terracycle initiative launched in Ontario earlier this year. Don’t get her wrong, recycling is “necessary and critical,” she says. For example, Terracycle and Nordstrom just partnered on Beautycycle, a program aiming to recycle 100 tons of beauty packaging by 2025 (you can bring any beauty empty to a Nordstrom store to have it recycled). But still, she says, recycling is “a Band-Aid on the much larger issue.” That’s where Loop comes in. It sort of works like an old-school milkman, collecting reusable bottles, cleaning them up and then refilling them. Loop assists companies in transitioning to durable, refillable containers and teams up with retailers such as Loblaws in Canada, so that consumers can buy participating products and drop off empties in a convenient location. Examples of beauty partners in Canada include indie brands like Oneka and Meow Meow Tweet, as well as REN, the first premium beauty brand to sign up. Arnaud Meysselle, REN’s CEO, doesn’t sugar-coat it: Eliminating waste is hard. “There are a lot of hurdles to overcome,” he says of the brand’s pledge to become waste-free by end of year. “There’s a financial impact, which we swallowed—additional costs are not added to the end product—because we are the sinner, so why would we ask people to pay for our sins?” “It’s much easier for the big companies to make these moves. They have the volume. They could do whatever they want”   Unfortunately, not every brand is in a position to absorb the costs linked to greener packaging. “It’s really hard for indie brands, the smaller brands, because a lot of these things come with a 10 or 50 thousand minimum order,” says Sheri L. Koetting, founder of MSLK, an agency that guides beauty brands at all stages of development. “So, it’s much easier for the big companies to make these moves. They have the volume. They could do whatever they want.” Ericka Rodriguez ran into this exact problem when she was sourcing refillable lip crayon tubes. “The quotes we were getting to make these were astronomical,” she says. “The way it works is there’s only so many beauty manufacturers out there. They’re mostly in China and they all already work for the big beauty brands. Since these big beauty brands haven’t really invested in, for example, a refillable crayon tube, we’re having to do it and it can be out of reach.” Luckily, the shift is starting. Last year, P&G brands Pantene, Head & Shoulders and Herbal Essences announced they’d be launching refillable shampoos and conditioners. In January, Dove debuted a refillable deodorant. Unfortunately, these products aren’t available in Canada yet. You can, however, shop refills from L’OccitaneTata Harper, Hairstory and Kiehl’s, to name just a few. “By using 1-litre refill pouches, customers use on average 80 per cent less plastic compared to the same amount of formula across four 250-ml bottles,” says Leonardo Chavez, global vice-president for Kiehl’s. “Less plastic,” as in most pouches are still made of plastic, which Koetting says can be viewed as “not that eco-friendly.” “But the amount of plastic that goes into that pouch is so much more minimal and doesn’t take a lot of energy to make,” she says. Because it’s lighter and can ship flat, its transport also generates fewer carbon emissions. We have a tendency to vilify materials, says Szaky, which has certainly been the case with plastic in recent years. “Plastics can do amazing things that nothing else can do. Our computers are made from plastic, our eyeglasses are made from plastic. It’s also how the materials are used that determines whether they’re benevolent or not.” Perhaps the most benevolent material is no material at all Perhaps the most benevolent material is no material at all. British brand Lush has been a leader in that space with its packageless haircare and skincare bars. Rodriguez also decided to take that route with her multi-purpose balms—she did away with the tubes and instead wrapped the bullets in recycled paper—when she couldn’t find a manufacturer that could provide a packaging solution she was comfortable with. As consumers, supporting brands that offer these kinds of package-free or refill products—or letting the ones that don’t know that we want better options—can make a world of difference. “The number 1 thing that will make industry change is purchasing habits—that speaks volumes,” Greve says. But the most effective purchasing habit of all? Buying way less. “The only answer is lowering consumption,” Szaky says matter of factly. And this is where the illusion shatters even further: “No matter how vegan or fair-trade that thing that you bought is, if you didn’t buy it, that land that had to farm it could have been a forest.” Like Santa, Szaky confirms, “there’s no such thing as good consumption.”

Ulta Beauty Packaging Just Got More Sustainable

Ulta Beauty Packaging Just Got More Sustainable Ulta Beauty teamed up with Loop to create a one-stop online shop for sustainable, cruelty-free, and vegan products. BY CHARLOTTE POINTING | MARCH 11TH, 2021   Ulta Beauty’s packaging just got more sustainable, thanks to a new partnership. The popular U.S. beauty chain has teamed up with Loop, a zero-waste venture owned by TerraCycle, a global leader in recycling. Together, the two companies have created Loop by Ulta, a one-stop online shop for all things sustainable beauty, stocking a range of cruelty-free and vegan-friendly brands, including Burt’s Bees, Soapply, Ecco Bella, and Meow Meow Tweet. Customers place their orders through the website and the products are delivered to their door, all very standard procedure. But here’s where things change: Instead of using the product and throwing it away when they’re finished, customers pop the empty bottles into a reusable “exclusively designed” Loop tote bag. They then make arrangements through the Ulta by Loop website to have their old empties picked up; these are subsequently cleaned, refilled, and placed back onto the virtual shelves for sale. Tom Szaky, the founder and CEO of Loop and TerraCycle, said in a statement sent to LIVEKINDLY: “Consumers are increasingly asking for more environmentally responsible options in this category and this collaboration provides them with a solution that is simple and convenient.” Ulta is trying to bring forward “innovative solutions” to the beauty industry’s waste problem. | @shoploopstore

Ulta Beauty is working with Loop, a zero-waste venture owned by TerraCycle.

A Sustainable Beauty Loop

Loop by Ulta’s approach creates a circular economy instead of the standard linear one (where products are bought, used, and then thrown away). A circular economy keeps resources in a loop (get it?), which reduces waste in a big way. Across industries, waste is an urgent problem, and the beauty industry is no exception. Globally, more than 120 billion units of cosmetic packaging are produced annually, and much of this ends up in landfills and the ocean. Dave Kimbell, the president of Ulta Beauty, says that “as the nation’s leading beauty retailer,” the company has a responsibility to bring forward “innovative solutions.” He said: “As we work to deliver more informed, conscious product choices to our guests, this first-of-its-kind partnership with the pioneers at Loop is an exciting step on our journey.” “We look forward to seeing our guests embrace Loop by Ulta Beauty as we all work together to create a lasting legacy for our world.” Shop Loop by Ulta’s sustainable product range here.