Clean makeup is invited into our kit for our greatest good and that of Mother Nature. And is about to revolutionize the entire cosmetic industry.   At first glance, the displays in the Sephora department store in downtown Montreal are very similar. From lipstick to foundation: there is all the arsenal necessary for the makeup bag.   But as you wander the islands, you will notice that green tablets bearing the words "Pure and healthy" are affixed to certain displays. Who is entitled to this distinction? The ranges free from harmful and ecologically responsible ingredients. Launched in 2018, the stamp now brings together around sixty brands.   An offer impossible to imagine barely 10 years ago, when beautists looking for clean makeup had very little to get on their skin. What happened? Sephora listened to its customers. "We have noticed a change in the concerns of consumers, who are increasingly looking for quality cosmetics with no suspicious substances," said Jane Nugent, vice president of merchandising at Sephora Canada.   In the target market there are millennials and generation Z, demanding customers looking for transparency and who read the labels carefully. "Companies even go so far as to modify some of their formulas to meet our selection criteria," says Jane Nugent.   Sephora is not the only business responding to this trend. The American retailer The Detox Market, created in 2010, has slowly established itself as the leader in healthy beauty. “When we started talking about clean makeup, it made everyone laugh. People associated green beauty with the hippie movement, ”says Romain Gaillard, founder of the chain, which has three branches in Toronto. Each product found on their site or in store must go through a rigorous evaluation process. "More than 1,000 companies contact us each year to be sold here ... It is essential to choose what we really like," he says. Sea Surfer Curl Volumizing Mascara, Tart , $ 30  

What is clean makeup?

  In the absence of established regulations, the definition of clean makeup varies from brand to brand and remains open to interpretation. In principle, any component suspected of being carcinogenic, endocrine disruptor, neurotoxic or allergenic should not be present in the formula. In addition, the packaging, boxes and flasks must be biodegradable, with a low carbon footprint.   What client wants ...   This awareness has been brewing for a long time according to WGSN, the renowned London trend office whose expertise consists in anticipating the major consumer trends of tomorrow. "Several years ago, we predicted that ethical responsibility would become a non-negotiable criterion for buyers," said Jenni Middleton, WGSN beauty director.   Since then, the growth of this phenomenon has been observed in the food, fashion and, now, beauty industry. To such an extent that, according to a report published on the company's website, "cosmetic companies that neglect their environmental impact risk losing consumer confidence". The polling firm Nielsen has also revealed that internationally 73% of consumers were ready to change their purchasing habits to reduce their environmental footprint and that 38% preferred to buy ethical cosmetics.   This enthusiasm does not go unnoticed by opportunistic banners who see it as a golden marketing opportunity: being seen as eco-responsible is a sales strategy rather than a real value, which gives rise to the famous greenwashing). “Some brands distribute misleading information to give the impression of being green in order to arouse the interest of customers. This can result in misleading statements about the list of ingredients, the packaging (less environmentally friendly than it seems) or even the production chain (falsely carbon neutral) ", argues Jenni Middleton. Fortunately, the expert notes that the consumer is increasingly demanding to see evidence of these claims. And when the client wants something, everyone answers the call. Hence the “Pure and healthy” seal offered by Sephora.  

Precursors of yesterday, leaders of today

  These pioneering brands of clean makeup have paved the way towards a more responsible cosmetic industry.   Dr. Hauschka   Founded in 1957, the German company launched its make-up range in 1999 as a complement to the skin products it already offered. “We use the same raw materials as in our care. Infused with extracts of medicinal plants and certified organic vegetable oils, our make-up aims to sublimate women's beauty and not to mask it, ”specifies Marie Calas, head of research and development. Eye and brow palette, Pierre shade, Dr. Hauschka , $ 65   Bite   "When we heard that a woman would ingest 3.17 kg of lipstick during her life, that made us think," reveals Sylvie Rouaix, vice president of product development at Bite. Originally from Toronto, the company has become a cult in the world of lipsticks. "We wanted to prove that makeup could be both safe and effective," she adds. In addition to being now 100% vegan, the Bite brand is launching foundations this year, pressed powders and foundation perfecting foundations. Changemaker modular coverage pressed powder, Medium 2 shade, Bite Beauty , $ 48 for 7.5 g. Sublimating micellar foundation, shade L20, Bite Beauty , $ 52 for 30 ml.   Ilia   It is by peeling the ingredients listed on the boxes of her cosmetics that the Vancouver resident Sasha Plavsic wanted to create her own brand. What she did in 2011. “I loved a tinted lip balm. My first challenge was to reproduce it in a non-toxic version, ”says the entrepreneur. Nine years later, its illuminators, eyebrow gels and multipurpose sticks are sold like hot cakes. One of the secrets of its success? The formulas are enriched with beneficial ingredients, such as hibiscus extract or rosehip oil.   Green vs black   The European Union prohibits the use of more than 1,300 ingredients in cosmetics sold on its territory. In Canada, only 600 components are banned - which is still better than in the United States, where there are only about thirty. But why is there such a big difference between us and our cousins from across the Atlantic? According to Health Canada, this is notably due to the fact that the European Union studies substances individually, whereas here, they are grouped rather by family (for example, aniline dyes).   As for controversial substances such as parabens, phthalates and others, which are still permitted despite the concerns they raise, Health Canada claims to be watching them. The ministry follows “international scientific and regulatory reports closely, and regularly reviews the safety of chemicals in cosmetics in the form of risk assessments.”   The problem is simultaneous exposure to these ingredients, says Lise Parent, ecotoxicologist and professor at TÉLUQ University. In other words, a mascara used alone may not be a threat to health, but added, every day, to the foundation, lipstick and eyeshadow ... "We have no idea of their long-term effect, says the expert. However, we do know that phthalates have direct consequences for the rat's reproductive system and thyroid.”   Even if the human body is a wonderful machine for filtering out harmful substances, Lise Parent reminds us that it is not without its shortcomings, particularly in the case of endocrine disruptors. "They tend to accumulate in the body and, since they are similar to the hormones produced by it, our body is not always able to detect them and set in motion the process necessary to get rid of it, ”she explains.  

Green container

  According to the Zero Waste Week website, 120 billion packages of cosmetics are produced each year ... and most of them are not recyclable. A dizzying number to which several brands are responding with green initiatives. "At Maison Jacynthe, all the boxes are made of wood and aluminum, in addition to being reusable thanks to refills of eyeshadows," argues Marco Marsolais, make-up artist for the stars and co-creator of the range of cosmetics offered by the company. . For its part, Burt's Bees collaborates with TerraCycle, a company specializing in the management of non-recyclable waste, to ensure the recovery of its small pots. Reusable case , $ 19. Terracotta , Mattina shade, and blush , In Love shade, Maison Jacynthe, $ 32 and $ 29.50   Where do the color pigments come from?   Most manufacturers of clean makeup - like Dr. Hauschka and Burt's Bees - opt for pigments of mineral origin, often identified on the packaging as iron oxides. At Maison Jacynthe, certain shades come from plant sources, such as the turmeric present in eyeshadows.   The red color, on the other hand, is more controversial. Brands choose carmine, a natural dye used for centuries and derived from crushed mealybugs (insects living on cacti). Vegan ranges will prefer to introduce some synthetic pigments.   As for the iridescent effect of certain illuminators and lip glosses, we owe it to an ore, mica. However, it is its extraction that is controversial. Many miners do in fact work with children, their small size being advantageous for digging wells and tunnels in deposits. Fortunately, ethical players make it a point of honor to source from responsible sources.  

Apps using

  How to take a closer look at the composition of products without carrying around a chemistry manual? Applications have been designed to scan the barcodes and the INCI list (the nomenclature of components) written on the packaging. Skin Deep   Works with ratings from 0 to 10 (10 being the level most harmful to health). Clean Beauty   We photograph the list of ingredients, then the application extracts the controversial components in seconds. Glossary of 800 ingredients. Think Dirty   Canadian application which evaluates, after reading the barcode, the ingredients according to ratings (from 0 to 10) combined with a color system. A substance rated 10 and highlighted in red = danger!   Performance at the rendezvous   Clean makeup has long suffered from a lack of hold. The eyeshadows spun in the folds of the eyelids, the mascara had to be reapplied several times a day, the textures were not in focus… Today, the cosmetic giants have corrected these weaknesses. Makeup artist Alexandre Deslauriers, who acted as a consultant for the makeup component at Burt's Bees, believes that we must still moderate our expectations. "It's not normal for a lipstick to last for 16 hours!" he exclaims.   An infallible outfit often betrays the presence of silicone. To maintain color on the lips, Burt's Bees has replaced plastic particles with mixtures of vegetable oils and waxes. In its tinted cream formula, it is squalane, a plant component extracted from olive oil, which solves the problem of spreading and adhesion to the skin. Bite, a brand recognized for its ultra-pigmented lipsticks, has traded dimethicone (silicone) for orange peel wax accompanied by agave nectar, both rich in antioxidants. Matt stick, Rippling Rose shade, Burt's Bees , $ 9.99   Maison Jacynthe Complexion Fluid is the favorite product of make-up artist Marco Marsolais. Its formula is enriched with borage oil, which gives it a malleable texture and hydrating power. "By applying it repeatedly on my clients' faces, I saw their skin change," he says. Green ingredients are also used in place of BHA and BHT (synthetic antioxidants) or formaldehyde (antimicrobial preservative) to preserve the products and avoid rancidity of fatty substances. To do this, Maison Jacynthe had previously used coffee extract, but will soon opt for Labrador tea to promote the natural riches of Quebec.