Lush is taking it all off with its newest Naked, a packaging-free store that teaches customers to use their phones to get all the information that used to come on labels.
The new store is opening in Manchester, U.K., later this month, and follows the launch of Naked stores in Milan and Berlin.
As consumers have become increasingly aware of just how ugly the beauty business can be environmentally, Lush is leveraging its pioneering status in the war against excess packaging. Some 50% of its products are already sold packaging-free, from bar shampoos to bath bombs to body butter.
But the Naked shops take the concept even further, introducing people to the #LushLabs app, which allows them to scan the product with the Lush Lens, giving them detailed ingredient information and directions digitally.
“We work in an industry where the packaging costs the customer more than the product,” says Mark Constantine, the company’s co-founder and managing director, in its announcement.
“Now, the customer needs to worry about how to recycle something they didn’t want to buy in the first place. This seems like a raw deal to us. If we can cut out all the plastic packaging, we can give our customers better value for money.”
Lush, which is based in Poole in the U.K., says its digital work is backed by the same ethical approach it brings to products like “Honey, I washed the kids” and “Cheer me up, Buttercup.” It says it is releasing work-in-progress experiments through the app, inviting the public to try and give open feedback on its development process through #LushLabs.
Other brands have also been intensifying efforts to lessen the impact of an industry that continues to crank out millions of plastic bottles, not to mention harmful microbeads and microplastics. Garnier, for example, partners with TerraCycle, focusing on consumers’ bathroom blind spots. It says 90% of packaging in people’s kitchens makes its way into the recycling bin, while just 50% of bath-product packaging does.
Lush says last year alone, its U.K. customers generated 89.8 million plastic-free hair washes.
The company’s U.S. spokesperson tells Marketing Daily that no stores are planned here yet, but says so far, it has sold “an incredible 1.3 million shampoo bars in North America alone, resulting in more than 4 million plastic bottles saved from potentially ending up in landfill and our oceans.”
It’s also introducing Lush's global Naked Skincare campaign, using a #LushNaked hashtag, highlighting the many naked products available in Lush shops worldwide, as well as a brand-new naked skincare line, including facial oils and cleansers in bar form.
Despite mixed responsiveness from global governments, the beauty industry is racing ahead with its own sustainability efforts, reshaping ingredient innovation, packaging design and brand strategies. This was a core topic of the 72nd Annual Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase presented by the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. Here are five highlights of the industry’s sustainable future, as presented at the event.
1. Slow Beauty
The fast pace of the beauty industry’s expansion in recent years and the attendant explosion of indie brands, rapid product release schedules and rising e-commerce-related shipping have not gone unnoticed.
A backlash against fast beauty is emerging, said Mintel’s Sara Jindal. Shoppers are increasingly seeking simple beauty routines and reward brands that share their more conservationist attitudes—as long as those brands make it easy.
Jindal noted that 74% of Spanish beauty and personal care consumers are concerned that ingredients used in natural products are not sustainable, while 24% of Indian consumers are motivated to live a more natural lifestyle to support environmentally conscious businesses.
And, following a number of frustrated posts by key influencers, many beauty brands are rethinking excessive packaging for PR mailings and unboxing videos.
In short, sustainability matters to the planet and the market.
Consumer products giants are not alone in this effort, but their actions have the largest impact system-wide. Companies like Unilever and P&G are finding ways to reintegrate waste and design products for reuse or repurposing.
Jindal explained that brands have to engage their consumers in order to ensure they take advantage of refillable packaging—this requires engagement post-purchase. In addition, some companies may wish to encourage consumers to upcycle products, as on the makeup reselling platform Glambot.
There is also a movement underway to extend the life of products to reduce waste. This can be a contentious process, pitting preservative-free demands against shelf-life concerns.
Brands have found creative ways to hack existing products for extended life. For instance, Italian manufacturer Gotha produced “Second Chance” Mascara Drops to extend the use of every bit of a product.
These organizations have also created marketing to educate consumers on how to use products efficiently and dispose of waste. For instance, Garnier partnered with TerraCycle to produce educational videos on how to recycle, making the entire product experience through disposal seamless and as easy as possible.
Jindal concluded: brands of every scale can play to consumer sentiment by offering simple solutions that feel good and save money and time.
2. The Benefits of Fermented Ingredients
Taking a page from the ongoing intersection of food and beauty, Steven Schnittger, vice president of global microbiology and fermentation R&D at the Estée Lauder Companies, discussed the future of cleaner, greener formulations driven by fermented products.
These materials meet the natural criteria detailed in ISO 16128-1:2016, said Schnittger, because they are obtained by microbiological processes. Furthermore, he argued, fermentation is safe, consistent and economically viable.
Fermented materials can be produced independent of weather and climate conditions, and require no pesticides, fertilizers or chemical extraction, resulting in a low carbon footprint. In addition, the results are highly reproducible due to controlled process conditions. Meanwhile, downstream processes can further modify and improve the activity of ingredients.
In addition, fermented ingredients are easily incorporated into emulsions. They can appear in the form of a spray-dried powder, freeze-dried crystals or aqueous-based formats. Fermented ingredients also allow formulators and brands to minimize preservation through process and engineering techniques.
The result is green innovation with little impact on the overall cost of goods.
3. Preservative-free Probiotics?
Topical probiotics can potentially address dermatitis, eczema, burn and scar healing, skin rejuvenation and other common issues, said Jennifer Cookson, director of product development for Mother Dirt.
However, she argued, because preservatives are built to inhibit growth of microorganisms, strategies are needed to formulate without them in order to engineer better probiotics.
These could include “hacking” water activity, extending low pH exposures, and including multifunctional ingredients such as MCTs and other hurdles to achieve desired anti-microbial activity without damaging probiotics that brands want delivered to the skin.
Packaging can also play a role, said Cookson. Technologies such as pump seals that prevent product that has come into contact with the skin from reentering the bottle, vapor-resistant bottles, sterilizing filters in dip tubes and package nozzles, and airless pumps can all play a role in diminishing threats to product integrity.
Cookson noted that trial and error is required to find the right mix of hurdles for each product—there is no single strategy that can be universalized.
4. The Future of Ingredient Testing
Manasi Chavan, marketing manager, face care, at BASF, outlined the company’s partnership with Poietis to develop 3D-printed physiological human skin tissue models that will one day bestow BASF with a more predictive in vitro assessment of the toxicity and efficacy of cosmetic ingredients.
Chavan noted that the companies have been working to improve the 3d laser-assisted bioprinted skin models that can offer a high degree of flexibility and repeatability. Currently, it takes about 15 days to bioprint a sample of skin, with researchers finding new ways to improve the structure and organization of the models.
5. Plant-based Anti-aging
Ilya Raskin, a professor at Rutgers University, discussed the application of natural ingredients in beauty products.
The Power of Moringa
Raskin noted that isothiocyanates can mobilize cell defenses against aging, stress and inflammation. These materials can be derived from sources such as cress seed oil and Moringa oleifera Lam., the so-called drumstick tree.
The technology stimulates the Nrf2 protein, which Raskin described as a “master control protein” that supports cells against stress and damage. Estée Lauder developed its technology to support Nrf2 function to boost antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in the skin.
The ingredient is highlighted in Estée Lauder’s Revitalizing Supreme+ Global Anti-Aging Cell Power Crème. The product comprises the company’s RevitaKey Technology, featuring morning extract.
The brand states: “this silky-soft, deeply nourishing multi-action creme encourages skin's natural power to amplify collagen and elastin. Lines and wrinkles look dramatically reduced. Skin’s visible firmness, density and elasticity is significantly improved.”
Furthermore, the product stimulates skin repair with the inclusion of Narcissus tazetta bulb extract.
Phenolics
Phenolics are another attractive area of interest, said Raskin. These materials comprise chlorogenic acid, which stimulates melanogenesis suppression for an anti-inflammatory effect. Phenolics can be found in scarlet lettuce, which has three times the antioxidants and polyphenols of blueberries, as well as in chicory.
Garnier, a naturally inspired skincare and haircare brand, announced that Winston-Salem State University received a Garnier Green Garden made from recycled beauty and personal care products for the Winston-Salem community. University student Miranda Legg was named the winner of Garnier national Rinse, Recycle, Repeat campaign, created in partnership with TerraCycle and DoSomething.org.
Launched in March 2018, the goal of Rinse, Recycle, Repeat was to convey the importance of recycling beauty and personal care waste containers. From the competition, over 20,000 beauty and personal care containers were collected.
Legg competed against entrants from 49 other schools throughout the month of April. As a result of her efforts, a new Garnier Green Garden was donated to Simon’s Green Acre Community Garden, located in Winston-Salem, North Carolina. The revamped garden includes raised beds, picnic tables, park benches and waste receptacles.
In addition to the Simon’s installation, Garnier has donated 11 other Garnier Green Gardens throughout the country. These gardens have engaged hundreds of thousands of individuals in the surrounding communities and many of them grow fruit and vegetables for local schools in impoverished areas where children do not have access to nutritional lunches.
Beauty editors and writers are used to getting late-night (or early-morning or literally 24-hours-a-day) texts with zero context and burning questions. No, we don't mean of the "U up?" variety. These inquiries are about skin freak-outs, product recommendations and makeup mishaps... and we've seen 'em all. With that in mind, we welcome you to our series, "Fashionista Beauty Helpline," where we address the beauty questions we get asked most frequently — and run them by experts who really know their stuff.
The beauty editors' "U up?"
Whether because of a now-regretted subscription to a monthly beauty box, short-lived fling with a 10-step K-beauty skin-care routine or a minor obsession with YouTube makeup tutorials, chances are you're the (not-so-proud) owner of more moisturizers, serums, powders and palettes than you can possibly use. And let's not forget that these things expire! But before you clear off that #shelfie and pare down your products, it's best to have a game plan in place — ideally one that doesn’t involve a trash bin.
There are three main options for decluttering your beauty collection the eco-friendly way: reselling, donating and recycling. The right choice for you depends on the specific products you have on hand; whether they're brand new, gently used or mostly used; and just how generous you're feeling.
WHERE TO RE-SELL UNWANTED BEAUTY PRODUCTS
"Recommerce" has all but taken over the fashion industry, and the second-hand shopping trend is extending its influence into the beauty space, too; with sites like Poshmark, eBay and Glambot all allowing beauty products to be bought and sold via online platforms.
To unload unused (as in, never opened and never swatched) beauty products, head to Poshmark or eBay. Both platforms are user-friendly and give you full control of your products, from the pictures to the price. Simply start an account, snap a few photos, upload them to site with a short description and wait for the sales roll in. While Poshmark doesn't allow the sale of liquids of any kind (that includes nail polish and perfume), eBay is a little more lenient with its guidelines: Unused fragrances and aerosols, like hair sprays and dry shampoo, are fine to sell and ship domestically.
But your used skincare and cosmetics aren't necessarily destined for the dump. Glambot, an online marketplace for all things makeup, accepts both brand new products and those that are "up to 50 percent used" — including sample sizes — but the site does have a pretty specific set of guidelines. It only takes items from a handful of high-end beauty brands (no drugstore steals here) with labels in "sellable condition," and doesn't accept products that fall under the umbrellas of hair care, body care, nail care or full-size fragrance. The platform handles product uploads and shipping for you, though, which is a bonus. To sell through Glambot, you can request a prepaid shipping label and mail in a "sell package" for consideration. According to the company, "Sell packages must contain at least 20 full size, qualifying items; international packages must contain 30."
If all else fails, check out Reddit: The community content platform boasts Skincare Exchange and Makeup Exchange pages with tens of thousands of users, where you can share any item, new or used, with community members who may be willing to buy or swap products.
That being said, it's very much worth noting that dermatologists warn against buying or exchanging used beauty products through Glambot and Reddit (or by any other means, for that matter). "Unless the 'used' product is in its original packaging, unopened and not expired, sharing skin-care or beauty products of any sort is not recommended," says Dr. Neil Sadick of Sadick Dermatology. "Our skin is a great host of personalized bacteria; whether we have acne, or eczema or an untidy bathroom dresser, the bacteria grow and thrive, especially in dark containers within a moist environment." Something as simple as not fully closing the lid on a face mask or testing the feel of a new makeup brush can spread these microorganisms. "You don't know if the used lipstick will give you a cold sore, or the mascara an eye infection," Dr. Sadick says. In other words, it's better to be safe than sorry.
WHERE TO DONATE UNWANTED BEAUTY PRODUCTS
If you're not concerned about earning cash for your cosmetics, donation is the way to go. And while foundations like Goodwill or The Salvation Army don't actually accept beauty products, there are plenty of speciality charities across the country that do.
Share Your Beauty, an offshoot of the Family to Family organization, launched in 2014 with the help of beauty influencer Lara Eurdolian of Pretty Connected. The initiative distributes unopened, unused beauty and personal care products to "homeless shelters, domestic violence shelters and foster care agencies," according to Pam Koner, the Executive Director of Family to Family. The organization works directly with skin-care, makeup and hair-care brands, as well as industry influencers, to collect excess product; but it also accepts donations from the general public. "Individual donors can ship their beauty products to us or leave them at a drop off point in New York City," explains Koner.
Another option for new, unused and non-expired self-care products is Beauty Bus, an organization that brings in-home and in-hospital beauty services to those "whose illness or condition prevents them from accessing a salon." The donated beauty items are used for both pop-up salon treatments and goodie bags, so that every client ends their service with a beauty-boosting care package. Donations can be mailed to the organization’s headquarters in Santa Monica, California.
If you're saving a stash of cosmetics you've only used once or twice, Project Beauty Share can help you downsize. The charity accepts "lightly used" skin care, cosmetics, hair care and hygiene products and distributes them to disadvantaged women across the country when you ship donations to their Washington sorting center.
The easiest option? Check in with local homeless and women's shelters in your area to see if they accept personal care drop-offs, and make a philanthropic pit-stop on your next lunch break.
Just keep in mind that even if an organization accepts used beauty products, it's never charitable to donate your germs. Anything that comes in a jar that you dip your fingers into shouldn't be given away — it's just too risky. The same goes for cream blushes and eye shadows (bacteria thrives in cream formulas but can't survive in powders), mascaras and anything applied directly to the skin with a wand, like lip gloss. These products are best passed along to friends and family members (hey, they might be more inclined to overlook the germ factor) or tossed.
WHERE TO RECYCLE UNWANTED BEAUTY PRODUCTS
Here's a not-so-fun fact: Most cosmetics are considered "hazardous waste," which means you shouldn't dump the remaining contents of a nearly-empty product down the drain or rinse empty beauty containers in the sink, where they can contaminate the water supply. Instead, call your local disposal center and ask if it accepts cosmetics as hazardous waste. If it doesn't, make sure to dispose of the contents directly into a trash bin destined for a landfill, and wipe down the container with a paper towel in lieu of rinsing it out.
As far as packaging goes, recycling is key. "Each year, more than 120 billion units of packaging contribute to one quarter of landfill waste, much of it produced by the global cosmetics industry," says Gina Herrera, the U.S. Director of Brand Partnerships at TerraCycle. "The complex plastics of squeeze tubes, cream tubs, eyeliner and mascara wands, body wash bottles and powder compacts can take over 400 years to break down in a landfill." That's exactly why TerraCycle exists. The national recycling program accepts virtually all makeup, skin-care and hair-care packaging — from bottles to pumps to trigger heads — and makes sure each piece gets recycled through the proper channels.
TerraCycle offers a few different ways to take advantage of its planet-saving services. One is the Zero Waste Box program. "Individuals can purchase a box specially designed for beauty products and packaging," explains Herrera. "When the box is full, they return it to TerraCycle with a pre-paid shipping label for recycling." Or, you can drop off your #empties to a participating TerraCycle location. Through a partnership with physical L'Occitane stores, "We have a network of convenient drop-off locations across the country for consumers to drop off their empty beauty packaging," says Herrera. TerraCycle simply asks that all excess product has been removed and that the packaging is not wet when sent in or dropped off.
Once your bathroom cabinets are free and clear of clutter, the final step is to keep the first initial of "the three Rs" in mind: reduce. And when you do need to restock your #shelfie, turn to brands that actively offer sustainable solutions. "Currently TerraCycle is working with EOS, Burt's Bees, L’Occitane and Garnier, to name just a few," Herrera reveals (and you can find more eco-friendly brands here). "Through their relationship with us, all of these brands have created a viable system to recycle their packaging and help save the environment."
Every single toothbrush ever used is still somewhere on our planet. It’s gross and completely avoidable. Replacing your plastic toothbrush with a bamboo, compostable one is an easy step toward making your bathroom a single-use, plastic-free zone, as is replacing any single-use plastic razors with stainless steel alternatives.
Unfortunately, there isn’t much in terms of sustainable packaging for cosmetics, and what’s available is often expensive. That said, try to find out if any of your favorite brands offer a refill program (plenty do, and normally at a discount), or whether they have a recycling service. Garnier, for example, has partnered with TerraCycle and DoSomething.org on their Rinse, Recycle, Repeat program which aims to keep empty bottles out of landfills.
"Actually, it was during my very first meeting with Garnier that they mentioned their work with UNICEF, and that, to me, stood out from the pack. Being able to use my platform to support their commitment to UNICEF, in ways that go beyond products — because the brand's core values of taking care of the next generation, the future generation — is a very, very important thing. I'm also a big animal advocate, so I love the work the Animal League does and the ASPCA, so anything that's environmentally leaning like TerraCycle, another organization that I've worked with Garnier on a campaign around recycling."
At the end of the competition, Legg had collected more than 5,000 beauty and personal care containers, topping college competitors on 50 campuses to win Garnier’s Rinse, Recycle, Repeat: College Competition, created in partnership with TerraCycle and DoSomething.org.
Considering packaging at the beginning of product development is an idea that would appeal to TerraCycle. Unfortunately, explained TerraCycle’s Anthony Rossi, during the past 70 years, producers reduced the weight of the package, and in the process recycling rates have crashed.
“We shouldn’t ask, ‘Can we recycle it,’ we should ask, ‘Would you want to recycle it?’” explained Rossi.
At the end of the competition, Legg had collected more than 5,000 beauty and personal care containers, topping college competitors on 50 campuses to win Garnier’s Rinse, Recycle, Repeat: College Competition, created in partnership with TerraCycle and DoSomething.org.
